Family
The Overlooked Country Perfect for Older Women
What a surprise!
When I told people that I was going to Poland for two weeks this summer, the reaction was usually something like, “That’s an interesting choice.”
Poland doesn’t have the cachet of Paris or Italy. There’s no Eiffel Tower or Amalfi Coast, but there are charming European towns, amazing architecture, great food, gorgeous mountains and fascinating history everywhere you turn.
While I was there, a story hit my newsfeed: “Europe is hot, crowded and crazy expensive.” But Poland was none of those things, and that’s exactly why I loved it. For most of us, as we get older, standing in line for hours at tourist attractions and fighting crowds becomes less and less appealing. If Poland isn’t on your bucket list, it’s an underrated destination that should be.
Gdańsk, Poland, was the biggest surprise of the trip for me. It’s the most charming European town I had never heard of before planning this trip. It’s impossible not to feel the history as you stroll through the Old Town. Gdańsk is home to the renowned Museum of the Second World War and is a short drive from Westerplatte, which is widely recognized as the site where the nearly six-year conflict began.
A history buff could easily fill days visiting museums here. If that’s not your thing, you can cruise along the river, rent a cute little boat decorated like a taxi or just soak up the atmosphere at one of the many riverside restaurants and cafes.
Gdańsk is a popular destination for Polish vacationers, but you don’t need a pass to enter the city and stroll the bridges like you do in Venice. Even in July, our riverboat cruise ended up being just our party of three and was only $27 each.
The nearby town of Sopot (a short cab or train ride away) is the Polish equivalent of the French Riviera, with the longest wooden pier in Europe. The main street felt lively and bustling, yet we were able to walk into a beachside restaurant with no reservation and take our choice of tables with a view of the Baltic Sea. From hotels to meals to excursions, your dollar definitely stretches further here than in Western Europe.
If you love mountain scenery, Zakopane is the gateway to the Tatra Mountains, which easily rival the Alps for scenic beauty. Zakopane has the charming feel of a mountain ski town and is known for its thermal baths. You can easily spend a few days here hiking or spa-hopping at a fraction of the price of other European towns. Morskie Oko, one of the most scenic mountain sights on the Polish side of the Tatras, is accessible by horse and cart, so you can experience the majestic beauty even if you aren’t a hiker. And the border with Slovakia is a short drive away for even more stunning scenery.
Kraków was the part of the trip that I was most looking forward to, and it didn’t disappoint. It has one of Europe’s largest town squares, with all the quintessential European charm and energy without the insane crowds or heat (the one long-sleeve shirt I almost didn’t pack because it was July in Europe was my most worn item).
There were street performers, summer DJ dance parties, an amazing view of the city from the top of St. Mary’s Basilica and, of course, plenty of restaurants and cafes with outdoor seating in the large pedestrian area. Wawel Castle is the Polish equivalent of Windsor Castle or Versailles, complete with a fire-spitting dragon and plenty of folklore. A perfect way to end a day here is at a rooftop bar overlooking the castle and the Vistula River.
While I have Polish heritage (maybe obvious from the byline), I don’t think I fully grasped Poland’s place in world history until now. A visit to the Auschwitz concentration camp was a sobering experience. The most poignant moment of the tour for me was the large collection of shoes, including those worn by tiny children. Upon arriving on trains, the detainees went through “selection,” where potential workers for the camp were sent to the barracks. Those deemed unfit for work, including children, were ordered to remove all their clothing and sent directly to the gas chamber.
Beyond World War II, the oppression that Poland has faced over centuries is eye-opening. It’s almost hard to fathom just how recent their freedom is from the fall of communism. And yet today, Poland is filled with vibrant towns and kind, welcoming people. English is widely spoken, making travel easy.
If you want to experience Europe without overtourism, Eastern Europe has so much to offer. I know I will be back in this region of the world, with the Balkan countries of Montenegro, Bosnia, North Macedonia and Albania being high on my list of underrated destinations to discover.
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